Sunday, August 7, 2011

Cuaderno de viajes: Verano 2011 - Dias 22 y 23_Vuelta a Rumanía


Sábado 6 de Agosto. Regresamos al principio. Nuestra ruta establecida en el plan al inicio del viaje era volver al punto de partida (Bucarest) para poder tomar el vuelo de regreso a Madrid. Sin embargo, no teníamos claro cómo sería exactamente.

Había varias posibilidades. Todas comenzaban desde Szeged, nuestro último destino planificado en el tour de Hungría. Szeged es una importante ciudad del sureste del país, a escasos kilómetros de la frontera con Serbia y destino de muchos universitarios que le dan mucha vida y ambiente, excepto en verano cuando se queda relativamente desierta y apenas ocupada por unos pocos turistas (principalmente nacionales) que vienen a visitarla y a disfrutar del festival de teatro al aire libre durante los meses de julio y agosto. Habíamos pensado en quedarnos dos noches aquí pero, sinceramente, ni el hotel ni la ciudad eran merecedoras de estar más de un día.

Una de las posibilidades que manejamos fue subir a la ciudad de Kecskemet y desde allí ir a visitar el Parque Nacional de Kiskunsagi, donde según la guía se podía ver un espectáculo de "rodeo" a la húngara . Esta zona del país es una vasta planicie donde abundan extensísimas parcelas de cultivo y granjas. A pesar de que Szeged está en esta zona, está muy al sur de la misma y parece haber perdido parte de ese espíritu. Sin embargo, de lo que sí pudimos disfrutar es de un último paso por el Danubio en nuestro viaje en bus desde Siofok.... un último vistazo a nuestro compañero durante gran parte del viaje. Cuídate mucho amigo!

Sin embargo, desechamos la alternativa de seguir más tiempo en Hungría porque el viaje posterior a Bucarest desde Budapest era de 15 horas y no había sitio disponible en el coche cama. Así que decidimos partir el viaje de regreso a Bucarest en dos partes para garantizarnos dormir en cama y no en asiento duro (que aunque sea de primera, no es cama...). Por eso, pusimos en marcha el plan B. Este consistía en cruzar el sábado a Rumanía y hacer parada en Timisoara. Desde allí, viajaríamos el domingo a Bucarest en tren en "sólo" ocho horas de viaje.

Por eso, el sábado tomamos el tren de las 5 de la tarde desde Bekescsaba directo a Timisoara. El paso de frontera fue más plácido que en otras ocasiones. En este viaje se ha dado la curiosidad de que hemos entrado en Rumanía por tres medios de transporte: avión (al inicio del viaje), en bus desde Varna (Bulgaria) y ahora en tren desde Hungría. Vamos, que se puede decir que hemos puesto bien a prueba la capacidad de los rumanos de cuidar su frontera! :)

La salida de Hungría me deja un regusto agridulce... El segundo por Budapest, la mejor ciudad de todo el viaje. Sigo pensando que me gustaría volver más veces porque realmente vale la pena como destino de puente o fin de semana largo, con una buena oferta de billetes de avión y, claro, siempre quedándonos en nuestra "joyita" de hotel de nuestro amigo Albert. Pero sin embargo el país en sí no guarda grandes joyas aparte de su capital. El lago Balatón es un buen destino turístico para nacionales y vecinos (principalmente alemanes), pero como destino de veraneo sinceramente hay costas mucho mejores en el mundo. Probablemente Pecs defraudó por la lluvia, pero Szeged realmente tiene poco interés. Los otros destinos interesantes (el meandro del Danubio y Eger-Tokaj) son visitables en ida-vuelta desde Budapest. Sinceramente, creo que hay más que visitar en Rumanía (Transilvania es un must) e incluso en Bulgaria (la costa del Mar Negro tiene pasajes impresionantes, menos Varna!).

Ahora afrontamos el último tramo del viaje. Mientras escribo estas líneas termino mi enésima limonada en Timisoara, antes de tomar el tren destino a Bucarest. Aquí llegamos ayer sábado de noche. Después de una relativamente cómoda noche en nuestra pensión, esta mañana nos hemos levantado pronto a caminar por sus calles.

No sé por qué pero Timisoara ha sido una ciudad cuyo nombre siempre he recordado y asociado con Rumanía, después de Bucarest. Probablemente sea porque aquí se inició la revolución de 1989 que terminó con el régimen de los Ceaucescu y probablemente ocuparía titulares y portadas. Aunque también me viene a la mente por un partido de fútbol contra el atleti en la copa de la UEFA.... qué raro no?? En fin, la verdad es que la reconocida como "Primera Ciudad Libre" del país guarda un casco histórico con pintorescas plazas (Unirii, Victorei..) y una iglesia ortodoxa bastante interesante. Pero siguiendo el ejemplo de Constanta y Bucarest, también guarda un paisaje oscuro de antiguos edificios importantes ahora algunos abandonados o en pésimo estado. Tal y como dije de Bucarest, parece que el espíritu de la ciudad y de sus habitantes sigue afectado por su triste pasado reciente.

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